Wednesday, June 9, 2010

"You can't go home again" — Thomas Wolfe " And if you do manage to go home again, it will probably smell bad" --Mark Smith


In order  to occupy my time during my self imposed exile I picked up a side gig, which is not to say I have a main gig, unless you count smoking copious amounts of weed and working my way through the vast array of cold cereals offered at the local grocery. Not for nothin , but Lucky Charms now have stripes and are even more delicious. Anyway, I needed to find something to keep my powder dry, lest I revert to my former lifestyle. So I took a contract type job picking up trucks for a local guy. First truck was about an hour outside of Chicago. Sounds fairly mundane, and it is, but getting there was the tricky part. Dude pays x amount for the delivery of  the truck, how you get there is on you. Flying would have  put me in Chicago quick, but  the place I needed to be was only served by Amtrak, so I took the train. Besides, with my luck I'd end up on a plane loaded with middle eastern folks, and I'd spend the entire flight waiting for a jihad.

I was stoked about riding the train. When I was a pup, my mother, sister and yours truly took the train to Oklahoma. I had these nostalgic memories of those train rides. We ate in the dining car, the train  rocked you to sleep, we played Yahtzee. Mom always had a book stashed away waiting for me when I'd get all bored and annoying. At 9 she was  turning me on to Steinbeck, Faulkner, and Harper Lee. She dug the southern writers, and in turn I still prefer southern writers,Conroy, Dickey and James Lee Burke for example. See I'm getting all nostalgic  even now.  My point being, I was looking forward to reliving a slice from my childhood.  Instead I ended up with a slice of reality.

Reality in this case smelled like ass, B.O. , and cheap perfume.  The train was packed, not an empty seat in the joint. I was seated in the upper level of the car. By the way, those upper levels sway like a West Bottoms hobo who is all faded on Wild Irish Rose and gold spray paint fumes. There was an older hippy looking dude seated next to me, and as I sat down next to him a stench hit me. We all know someone who has yet to discover the magic of antiperspirant. It might be a too close friend or relative. Maybe it's the guy who works in the next cubicle, or changes the oil in your car. Point being, from time to time we all end up in someones airspace who  just plain stinks.  Hippy guy was oblivious to the funk, and it was so strong I figured it was him. It wasn't. He departed the train about an hour outside Kansas City, but the smell remained. Eight hours of smelling someones musk is a long time. Turned out it was a big lady a couple of rows up, wearing one of those two foot tall African head wraps and a brightly colored Mu Mu. I know it was her because I got stuck in the narrow stairwell as we got off the train in Chicago. She was right behind me, a couple of steps higher. It was the longest 2 minutes of my life in that stairwell. I wanted to snort bleach and pine sol.

I was laid over for 5 hours in Chicago, so I figured I'd walk around downtown, let the exhaust fumes purge the  ass smell from my nostrils.  Downtown Chicago reminds you just how small Kansas City is in comparison. Chicago panhandlers are as thick as pigeons. I'm standing out in front of the train station having a smoke, still smelling the lady in the head wrap when panhandler number one  approaches.  Young guy, couple of grand in tatts covering his arms. He starts his spiel, " Man this is really embarrassing, but I lost my wallet and I'm trying to get bus fare to get home".  I give my normal humanitarian response, "Can't help ya".  He wanders off to the next potential mark. By the time I'd smoked that Light 100, no fewer than 3 more panhandlers  tried to hit me up.  Funny thing, at least 3  of the panhandlers used the exact same  line as the first guy.  I was walking around, took a few shots of the canal that runs through downtown, and I see tattoo guy and a couple of the other panhandlers. They are standing in a circle, every one of em has a pretty decent bankroll, as they count it up.  Being a bum appears to be lucrative in Chi Town. I grab some food,  head back to the station, wait a few hours, board my train arrive at my final destination.  The drive  back to KC after picking up the truck was uneventful.  Next trip will be to Boston. Then Delaware. If this all works out I'll then  be moving on to picking up cars that someone stopped paying on. Locally. So pay your bills.

Back to the nostalgic thing. It struck me on the long drive back that night, how perspective changes with age. I'm sure those  long train rides to Pauls Valley Oklahoma were full of funky smelling people, but I was a kid back then, and the excitement overrode the unpleasant parts. Looking out the window of the truck into the darkness, the sound of the diesel droning along, I got a little sad. I remembered the sound of dice rattling in the Yahtzee cup, the southern drawl of my mother telling me to read this book or that one. Harper Lee painting pictures with words, hoping Boo Radley wouldn't snatch Dill or Scout and do god knows what to them.  I was hoping to rediscover a little piece of that long gone  moment in time. Instead I found foul smells and unoriginal street bums. To quote another southern writer ""You can't go home again"
Thomas Wolfe

14 comments:

  1. Other than the fact the train was packed, I've had 2 pleasant experiences riding the train to Chicago. On time, dining car food was good, other passengers didn't annoy me and the seats were waaay more comfy than coach on an airplane. And, no hassle and no charge for bags.

    Just knocked on wood.

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  2. I was on that train over the memorial day weekend and enjoyed the ride.this was our second time.it helps that there are two of us so we get to sit together and no one smelled.on the way back there was a crying baby but I was equipped with headphones and didn't care.beats flying in every way possible -price,comfort,time,space,etc.but only to chicago-going elsewhere like LA is 2 nights and is a little more train time than I can handle.

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  3. MV
    I was on it on Friday of the same weekend, boarded around 730 or 8 that morning. Same one?
    I agree the seats are better, although no center armrest sucks. I'm flying to Boston, it's a 20 hour train ride. Too much and about 50 percent higher.

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  4. We left on Saturday. There was a hobo-looking guy hanging out in the train but then he whipped out a blackberry phone so I could be wrong. We came back on Tuesday.

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  5. Welcome back, MM! Can you recite "the repo code"?

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  6. I'll warn ya, Boston is a city crammed into a small, small space, and the drivers are a very special brand of psycho, so be ready for that trip.

    Hobos with BlackBerrys, yup. All that cash is tax free. I rarely give on the street anymore.

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  7. Hey, at least you didn't take the bus. That would have been much much worse.

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  8. the panhandler story struck a chord. When I lived in the City by the Bay (no, not Loch Lloyd...) about a hundred years ago (okay, it was the late 70's/early 80's)I used to have to wend my way through the panhandlers as I walked to my solidly blue collar job downtown. You develop the rote responses, learn to distinguish between the drunks and the scammers, but treat them all with the same indifference. That indifference was transformed into insolence when I later met friends of a friend (a woman who was still firmly ensconced in the 60's vibe) whose 'job' was panhandling. Each one of them was clearing between 15K and 20K a year- tax free mind you. I was earning just over 14K at the time, and going to school full time, too. Suffice it to say panhandlers have never gotten a dime from me since.
    Ditto the Boston drivers comment above, btw. It ain't defensive driving in Bahston- it's offensive- get the other guy before he gets you. Remember- turn signals are a sign of weakness and playing chicken with someone trying to cut in is an art form.
    Glad you're posting again!!!

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  9. Chicago panhandlers have become a topic for a project myself and a photographer have teamed up on at http://chicagopanhandler.wordpress.com/ - The Chicago Panhandler Project, where we feature photographs, essays, and interviews concerning panhandling. If it's something you're interested, please check it out.

    In the San Francisco area, panhandlers are everywhere - you cannot go anywhere without running into a panhandler. I think my most interesting experience was being told by a panhandler in SF that "I don't want food, I just want to by crack - hey at least I'm honest!"

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  10. I ride Amtrak fairly often and have only had one negative experience with a bunch of Canadians going to Big Mountain to ski. It was packed, but nobody smelled bad. I always thought the worst thing about taking the train through the Rockies was the train parts laying around beside the tracks up in the mountains. I have taken it north out of Chicago but mostly on the east/west route just south of Canada. Perhaps it is a Midwest thing, the smelliness. I'm sorry you didn't enjoy it. It should be fun. I hope my kids memories of riding are nostalgic and sweet like yours. I found Chicago to be friendly and never was approached by a pan handler. I never give, since I saw the 60 minutes episode where they were making an average of $10-$12 an hour when minimum wage was $4.35. With inflation, they must be making $75,000 a year, tax free! Bastards. Hope your next road trip is better and glad you're back!

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  11. I feel for your ride with the smelly woman. I once sat behind a beautifully dressed French woman on a flight from Paris to NY. She had the worst BO I've ever smelled. It seemed like the flight took days. I was so glad to get out of that plane and breathe again. American bums smell better than that French woman!

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  12. I'm giggling like mad woman and I've only finished the first paragraph.

    I'll go finish reading now, just thought you might like to know that you've made me happy.

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  13. Dear Miscreant, I too am trying to figure this out. There are piece of the past, dreams that is, sensations that can be recreated in some form, though never completely. And beware! For your past may have relocated to another train, another country, and another conveyance entirely!

    I traveled with my sister and mother from Philadelphia to Pocatello Idaho by train back in the 60s. We went every summer to see my grandmother who would appear on that brick platform, always at night, and come flying to gather us into her like a great archangel. I know those dining cards and breakfast, stewed prunes with oatmeal (which I really liked) and which was served by southern black men wearing white toques and chefs uniforms. I remember the fabulous scratchy sofas that turned into bunk beds and the zinc bathrooms in our suite.

    There are few that have had that experience, and it's nice to meet another.

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